The clock is ticking... I have three days left in Paris. At times I want to do everything, other times nothing at all and hang out in the Champ du Mars.
My Social Experiment
Part of the fun of being on my own is trying new things. Knowing that if it doesn't go well, there are no witnesses.. at least ones that will remind me of it in the future. as an experiment, I decided to try saying Bonjour to complete strangers. I would select someone walking by themselves, usually middle aged or older. Each and every time without fail they have responded with a bonjour. It's as though it's the law or at least a well respected custom. I love it.
Marche Visit
Today was the first time that I swiped my credit card correctly on the first try at the super marche. I also had my things bagged up before the cashier had begun checking out the next customer. It was a proud moment. Now that I know the drill, it's almost time to go home.
Quiche
I was determined to cook again in the kitchen of the apartment. I wanted to make another bacon leek quiche like I had at the Cordon Bleu. Since there wasn't a tart pan at the apartment, I found one at the marche for the bargain price of 6 Euros. Yes, it's coming home with me.
It was a warm afternoon and I had the windows opened as I pre=baked the crust and prepped the filling. I enjoyed listening to my Paris music mix on my iPhone as I cooked. Strains of Edith Piaf and Nat King Cole (wonderful French versions of his songs) filled the air.
I took a break as the quiche cooled and then got ready to head out to the Louvre.
Something very weird happened today. Just before leaving for the Louvre, I felt a little light headed. I drank some water (it has been a warm day), then I realized all I'd had today was coffee and water. It was almost 5pm and I had absolutely forgotten to eat all day. I had a slice of the yummy quiche before I headed off to the Louvre.
Evening visit to the Louvre
This was my second visit to the Louvre for this trip. I was determined to see the Richelieu and Sully wings (I'd already visited the Denon wing when the family was here). As I approached the Louvre, I saw that the line was pretty long and there wasn't any special signage for groups. I had resigned myself to a bit of a wait when Madame came by and and motioned me through the special security entrance nearby. "Merci, Madame."
Most of the people entering the Louvre headed to the Denon wing (Mona Lisa, French paintings). I was pleased that I could skip the Denon. I looked for the wing with the least people, aha, Richelieu.
Richelieu
I spent some time exploring the area of sculptures which is located under Richelieu's glass pyramid. The light was amazing. It had been a very warm day and parts of the Louvre were positively HOT.
It felt good that I didn't have any "must see" items for this visit to the Louvre. I meandered through the sculpture area and entered the rooms with smaller sculptures (mostly religious). There is so much to see at the Louvre that it can be overwhelming. In a typical museum, I'd expect to see a few gorgeous sculptures not hundreds and hundreds.
I saw a sign that said "Napoleon's Apartment" and decided to check it out. Napoleon's apartment and residence had been preserved. It reminded me of Versailles and looked like Liberace would have been right at home. Napoleon's bedroom was interesting. The bed was rather small (not to surprising), there was a large area that looked more like a meeting space.
Medieval Louvre
Medieval Louvre is an area below the Louvre that I've never seen before. Long wooden plank walkways take you along the exterior of the medieval Louvre (remains of moat of the Louvre of Philippe-Auguste and Charles V, 12th to 14th century). Cool to see but a really long walk.
Sully
The Sully wing has the Egyptian collection. The artifacts are great, there's just so much, dare I say too much. The sarcophogus room has rows and rows from simple wooden to elaborately painted to huge stone monstrosities. My eyes were glazing over. The heat didn't help. I'd brought along my souvenir fan from Versailles (thank you Connie) as well as water.
I wrapped up the Louvre just before closing time. It felt good to get out in the fresh air. The sun was still setting over the Seine and the colors were positively amazing. Pinks, purples and reds that I knew I'd never be able to capture. So I walked for a bit and caught a taxi as the lights of Paris began their nightly show.
Bathrooms
When we first arrived in Paris, I warned my sister, Connie, that you never knew what was on the other side of the door until you enter the restroom. Also, be prepared to go on a hunt for the restroom in bistros and cafes. You may have to navigate a metal circular staircase to a dark, dank, basement hallway that looks like it was used as a shelter during the war.
In better establishments (such as Laduree on the Champs Elysees) the bathrooms are beautiful small condos ensuite with your water basin and towels right there.
For the most part, public bathrooms in Paris are rare and there's usually a long line. Last weekend, I counted sixty people (then stopped counting) in the queue for le toilettes at the Eiffel Tower.
The biggest surprise was the restroom at Versailles. This was not the main palace area but a building with a gift shop, very nice take-away restaurant near Marie Antoinette's "cottage." There were two stalls in the women's room. According to Connie, the handicapped stall was pretty ordinary. The second stall was not. I encountered what was essentially a large porcelain bowl affixed to the ground. Yes, it had a flush mechanism. Very bizarre and truly unexpected at Versailles.
At a small cafe in Montmartre, the woman showed us to the first floor restroom. It was past a bunch of cleaning supplies perched at the top of the landing before a steep staircase to the basement. On second thought, I can make my way up two flights to the other restroom. "Non, non, c'est bon." This is good. It was an acrobatic feat when Connie and I passed each other on the landing.
The bathroom at Au Pied de Cachon was very nice and had a wonderful view. Cynthia, my dinner companion, also noted that the handle on the bathroom door was a pig's foot. So sweet.
Too Good to Use
At the book signing, David Lebovitz recommended going back and using something considered "Too good to use." You know, that basket of little strawberries that are absolutely perfect. How did he know I had a basket of those very special strawberries?
On our last trip to Paris, we left an unopened bottle of Veuve Cliquot champagne and caviar for the housekeepers. I was determined not to do that this time. After returning from the Louvre, I enjoyed Veuve champagne, blinis with caviar and some of the wonderful little strawberries.
Bonne Nuit
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