"The sweetness and generosity and politeness and gentleness and humanity of the French has shown me how lovely life can be if one takes time to be friendly." - Julia Child
My Paris fantasy is coming to an end. I fly back tomorrow. This has been an amazing experience. I'm very grateful to have had the opportunity to spend this month in Paris. I know how fortunate I am and how special this experience has been. For all of the debates I went through in my head (too pricey, too much time away from David and Davey, etc.) I'm really glad I spent this time on my own in Paris.
Every day has had lots of new stuff to figure out. Sometimes it's fun, sometimes it can be frustrating. This was expected. To paraphrase the lyrics from a song by my beloved Edith Piaf, "I have no regrets. For the things That went wrong, at last I have learned to be strong."
The French
For their crusty exteriors, I find the French utterly charming. Once they warm up to you, it's like you're part of a secret club. By the end of week two, I felt like they'd shown me the secret handshake. As I'd walk down Avenue de La Bourdonnais and Rue Saint-Dominique heading toward Rue Cler, the souvenir shop guys and the crepe guy at the patisserie began to regularly call out, "Bonjour Madame." With all the tourists, I had been taking the quieter side of the streets. This daily exchange was so much fun that I began taking the busier shop-lined side.
By the time I was wrapping up my month in Paris, I exchanged Bon Jours and Bon Soirs with neighbors and the local shopkeeps on a regular basis. Even the experience of stopping to get a sandwich at the boulangerie on the corner (a great option following a long day of exploring) changed. After a week or so, they didn't sell me one of the pre-made sandwiches. They would make one fresh in the back. My favorite florist on Rue Cler would take the bunch of roses I'd selected, say "One moment," then duck in the back and appear with a bunch of larger, fresher looking roses. He'd smile and whisper "better."
Although my Paris fantasy comes to an end, I am so very fortunate to return to Half Moon Bay, my dear husband and sweet son, our good friends and our life by the sea. I'm also grateful to have discovered work that I love and a great company to work for (with a wonderful sabbatical program). I think I'll pinch myself.
Bonne Nuit
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Sat May 22nd - Evening Cruise on the Seine
Lady Gaga in Paris
Lady Gaga had a show in Paris last night. At about 1am, the post-Gaga concert goers started to arrive at the Eiffel Tower. There were a few groups loudly chanting Gaga. It was nice when they left. This morning, I enjoyed videos from the concert on Youtube. Yes, I'm a Lady Gaga fan.
Too Much Shopping?
My little shopping trips over the past month seem to have added up. I started staging stuff on the beds in the 2nd bedroom. I hope I can get it all in the suitcases. In addition to the goodies from E. Dehillerin and Le Cordon Bleu, I have four books signed by chefs (Chef Stefane and David Lebovitz). Some of the books are pretty big.
Most of the stuff I have accumulated is cooking related (spices, sel du mer aka Sea salt, towels, aprons, pans, little cookware utensils and a few knick knacks).
Please Air France, take pity on my. If I start crying and sing my own version of la vie en rose do you think they'll be sympathetic? I don't think so either, but I'll give it my best shot.
Yesterday was the last prime time day. With all the weekenders, I wouldn't get close to the main attractions over the weekend. I still can't believe that I closed the Louvre last night.
What to do
At one point I had a list of things I wanted to do and see in Paris. This weekend is an antiques fair at Rue Cler. Every morning, I drink coffee and think about what I want to do. By the time I finish my coffee, I usually have a few things picked out. Then, by the time I actually leave the apartment all of my plans can change. For today, I decided that I didn't really want to go to the antiques fair.
Yesterday afternoon as I waited for the bus to the Louvre, I think I finally found Princess Caroline's apartment. Not in the location described but nearby.
This afternoon I went back to the Champ du Mars, feeding the birds. Yes, I'm fairly certain that I found Princess Caroline's apartment. Had a god time walking through the 7th, picked up a baugette on the way back (that's how I wind up with so much bread to feed the birds).
Bateau Mouches (night cruise)
It was hot again today, in the 80s and humid. Later this evening I decided to head over to the Bateaeux Mouches for an evening boat cruise in the Seine. I planned to take a taxi (my feet were stil sore from yesterday's walking and the Louvre). After five minutes of trying to get a taxi, I decided to walk.
I was crossing a bridge over the Seine and remembered that I had a Paris beret in my bag. I don't know if it was the heat or the "Minneapolis girl tribute to Mary Tyler-Moore" kind of thing. I decided to wait in the middle of the bridge for a passing cruise boat. I timed it just right, tossed the beret and it fell near the feet of a surprised woman. She looked up and thought it had flown off my head. I smiled, waved and walked on.
The Bateaux Mouches area was buzzing with activity. There were a lot of tour buses, hordes of people and I was concerned that I might not be able to get on a cruise tonight. I got my ticket, got into line. It got jam packed with people before the boat arrived and we began boarding. Once on the boat, the cool air on the Seine felt good (I brought a jacket along because the weather can change so quickly). We left the dock as the sun was setting. The sun sets surprisingly late here - - almost 10pm. We had just started moving when the first Eiffel Tower light show of the evening began.
Paris is the city of the lights and there's no better way to experience them on a warm evening than on a boat on the Seine. The gorgeous buildings and monuments are well lit. On warm evenings, people gather next to Seine and have picnics and parties. I was shocked that there were so many people out. Hundreds and hundreds...areas along the Seine near the Universities were like one big party. The partiers were havng fun but weren't rowdy or wild and there were a lot of families out.
Moon over Paris
At one point, we passed a small group of guys (some areas along the Seine are dark and the cruise boat has bright lights) and one of the guys decided to moon us. Extremely funny. We went all the way down the Sene past the Notre Dame then back up past the Eiffel Tower, turned around and parked. As we got past the Eiffel Tower, a cold wind suddenly came up and most of the people on the upper deck headed downstairs.
After seeing so many people walking along the Seine, even though it was 11:30p, I decided to walk back to the apartment. It was a nice leisurely walk and I arrived just before midnight.
Paris Trivia - Why was Jim Morrison buried in Paris?
This was a question I had been thinking about. Didn't his family want his body sent back to the states?
The answer: Jim Morrison's music career had declined and he moved to Paris in March 1971. He was going through a weird phase in his life, wasn't on speaking terms with his parents and he had grown a beard which made him unrecognizable. In July 1971,he died of an overdose in Paris. At the time of his death, Jim Morrison had a trial pending n Florida for lewd behavior. It seems like it was easier for his family to simply have him buried in Paris. Also, Jim Morrison's father, a retired navy admiral, thought it was an honor for Jim to be buried in the same cemetery as Chopin, Oscar Wilde and other music and literary notables. Note to those in the Bay area - one of Jim Morrison's brothers was born in Los Altos (thank you Wikipedia).
Eiffel Tower Cam
Here's a link to the live Eiffel Tower cam: http://www.paris-live.com/paris_webcam/eiffel_tower_webcams.htm
Tomorrow is my last day in Paris. I have no specific plans.
Bonne Nuit
Lady Gaga had a show in Paris last night. At about 1am, the post-Gaga concert goers started to arrive at the Eiffel Tower. There were a few groups loudly chanting Gaga. It was nice when they left. This morning, I enjoyed videos from the concert on Youtube. Yes, I'm a Lady Gaga fan.
Too Much Shopping?
My little shopping trips over the past month seem to have added up. I started staging stuff on the beds in the 2nd bedroom. I hope I can get it all in the suitcases. In addition to the goodies from E. Dehillerin and Le Cordon Bleu, I have four books signed by chefs (Chef Stefane and David Lebovitz). Some of the books are pretty big.
Most of the stuff I have accumulated is cooking related (spices, sel du mer aka Sea salt, towels, aprons, pans, little cookware utensils and a few knick knacks).
Please Air France, take pity on my. If I start crying and sing my own version of la vie en rose do you think they'll be sympathetic? I don't think so either, but I'll give it my best shot.
Yesterday was the last prime time day. With all the weekenders, I wouldn't get close to the main attractions over the weekend. I still can't believe that I closed the Louvre last night.
What to do
At one point I had a list of things I wanted to do and see in Paris. This weekend is an antiques fair at Rue Cler. Every morning, I drink coffee and think about what I want to do. By the time I finish my coffee, I usually have a few things picked out. Then, by the time I actually leave the apartment all of my plans can change. For today, I decided that I didn't really want to go to the antiques fair.
Yesterday afternoon as I waited for the bus to the Louvre, I think I finally found Princess Caroline's apartment. Not in the location described but nearby.
This afternoon I went back to the Champ du Mars, feeding the birds. Yes, I'm fairly certain that I found Princess Caroline's apartment. Had a god time walking through the 7th, picked up a baugette on the way back (that's how I wind up with so much bread to feed the birds).
Bateau Mouches (night cruise)
It was hot again today, in the 80s and humid. Later this evening I decided to head over to the Bateaeux Mouches for an evening boat cruise in the Seine. I planned to take a taxi (my feet were stil sore from yesterday's walking and the Louvre). After five minutes of trying to get a taxi, I decided to walk.
I was crossing a bridge over the Seine and remembered that I had a Paris beret in my bag. I don't know if it was the heat or the "Minneapolis girl tribute to Mary Tyler-Moore" kind of thing. I decided to wait in the middle of the bridge for a passing cruise boat. I timed it just right, tossed the beret and it fell near the feet of a surprised woman. She looked up and thought it had flown off my head. I smiled, waved and walked on.
The Bateaux Mouches area was buzzing with activity. There were a lot of tour buses, hordes of people and I was concerned that I might not be able to get on a cruise tonight. I got my ticket, got into line. It got jam packed with people before the boat arrived and we began boarding. Once on the boat, the cool air on the Seine felt good (I brought a jacket along because the weather can change so quickly). We left the dock as the sun was setting. The sun sets surprisingly late here - - almost 10pm. We had just started moving when the first Eiffel Tower light show of the evening began.
Paris is the city of the lights and there's no better way to experience them on a warm evening than on a boat on the Seine. The gorgeous buildings and monuments are well lit. On warm evenings, people gather next to Seine and have picnics and parties. I was shocked that there were so many people out. Hundreds and hundreds...areas along the Seine near the Universities were like one big party. The partiers were havng fun but weren't rowdy or wild and there were a lot of families out.
Moon over Paris
At one point, we passed a small group of guys (some areas along the Seine are dark and the cruise boat has bright lights) and one of the guys decided to moon us. Extremely funny. We went all the way down the Sene past the Notre Dame then back up past the Eiffel Tower, turned around and parked. As we got past the Eiffel Tower, a cold wind suddenly came up and most of the people on the upper deck headed downstairs.
After seeing so many people walking along the Seine, even though it was 11:30p, I decided to walk back to the apartment. It was a nice leisurely walk and I arrived just before midnight.
Paris Trivia - Why was Jim Morrison buried in Paris?
This was a question I had been thinking about. Didn't his family want his body sent back to the states?
The answer: Jim Morrison's music career had declined and he moved to Paris in March 1971. He was going through a weird phase in his life, wasn't on speaking terms with his parents and he had grown a beard which made him unrecognizable. In July 1971,he died of an overdose in Paris. At the time of his death, Jim Morrison had a trial pending n Florida for lewd behavior. It seems like it was easier for his family to simply have him buried in Paris. Also, Jim Morrison's father, a retired navy admiral, thought it was an honor for Jim to be buried in the same cemetery as Chopin, Oscar Wilde and other music and literary notables. Note to those in the Bay area - one of Jim Morrison's brothers was born in Los Altos (thank you Wikipedia).
Eiffel Tower Cam
Here's a link to the live Eiffel Tower cam: http://www.paris-live.com/paris_webcam/eiffel_tower_webcams.htm
Tomorrow is my last day in Paris. I have no specific plans.
Bonne Nuit
Fri May 21st - From Paris with Louvre
The clock is ticking... I have three days left in Paris. At times I want to do everything, other times nothing at all and hang out in the Champ du Mars.
My Social Experiment
Part of the fun of being on my own is trying new things. Knowing that if it doesn't go well, there are no witnesses.. at least ones that will remind me of it in the future. as an experiment, I decided to try saying Bonjour to complete strangers. I would select someone walking by themselves, usually middle aged or older. Each and every time without fail they have responded with a bonjour. It's as though it's the law or at least a well respected custom. I love it.
Marche Visit
Today was the first time that I swiped my credit card correctly on the first try at the super marche. I also had my things bagged up before the cashier had begun checking out the next customer. It was a proud moment. Now that I know the drill, it's almost time to go home.
Quiche
I was determined to cook again in the kitchen of the apartment. I wanted to make another bacon leek quiche like I had at the Cordon Bleu. Since there wasn't a tart pan at the apartment, I found one at the marche for the bargain price of 6 Euros. Yes, it's coming home with me.
It was a warm afternoon and I had the windows opened as I pre=baked the crust and prepped the filling. I enjoyed listening to my Paris music mix on my iPhone as I cooked. Strains of Edith Piaf and Nat King Cole (wonderful French versions of his songs) filled the air.
I took a break as the quiche cooled and then got ready to head out to the Louvre.
Something very weird happened today. Just before leaving for the Louvre, I felt a little light headed. I drank some water (it has been a warm day), then I realized all I'd had today was coffee and water. It was almost 5pm and I had absolutely forgotten to eat all day. I had a slice of the yummy quiche before I headed off to the Louvre.
Evening visit to the Louvre
This was my second visit to the Louvre for this trip. I was determined to see the Richelieu and Sully wings (I'd already visited the Denon wing when the family was here). As I approached the Louvre, I saw that the line was pretty long and there wasn't any special signage for groups. I had resigned myself to a bit of a wait when Madame came by and and motioned me through the special security entrance nearby. "Merci, Madame."
Most of the people entering the Louvre headed to the Denon wing (Mona Lisa, French paintings). I was pleased that I could skip the Denon. I looked for the wing with the least people, aha, Richelieu.
Richelieu
I spent some time exploring the area of sculptures which is located under Richelieu's glass pyramid. The light was amazing. It had been a very warm day and parts of the Louvre were positively HOT.
It felt good that I didn't have any "must see" items for this visit to the Louvre. I meandered through the sculpture area and entered the rooms with smaller sculptures (mostly religious). There is so much to see at the Louvre that it can be overwhelming. In a typical museum, I'd expect to see a few gorgeous sculptures not hundreds and hundreds.
I saw a sign that said "Napoleon's Apartment" and decided to check it out. Napoleon's apartment and residence had been preserved. It reminded me of Versailles and looked like Liberace would have been right at home. Napoleon's bedroom was interesting. The bed was rather small (not to surprising), there was a large area that looked more like a meeting space.
Medieval Louvre
Medieval Louvre is an area below the Louvre that I've never seen before. Long wooden plank walkways take you along the exterior of the medieval Louvre (remains of moat of the Louvre of Philippe-Auguste and Charles V, 12th to 14th century). Cool to see but a really long walk.
Sully
The Sully wing has the Egyptian collection. The artifacts are great, there's just so much, dare I say too much. The sarcophogus room has rows and rows from simple wooden to elaborately painted to huge stone monstrosities. My eyes were glazing over. The heat didn't help. I'd brought along my souvenir fan from Versailles (thank you Connie) as well as water.
I wrapped up the Louvre just before closing time. It felt good to get out in the fresh air. The sun was still setting over the Seine and the colors were positively amazing. Pinks, purples and reds that I knew I'd never be able to capture. So I walked for a bit and caught a taxi as the lights of Paris began their nightly show.
Bathrooms
When we first arrived in Paris, I warned my sister, Connie, that you never knew what was on the other side of the door until you enter the restroom. Also, be prepared to go on a hunt for the restroom in bistros and cafes. You may have to navigate a metal circular staircase to a dark, dank, basement hallway that looks like it was used as a shelter during the war.
In better establishments (such as Laduree on the Champs Elysees) the bathrooms are beautiful small condos ensuite with your water basin and towels right there.
For the most part, public bathrooms in Paris are rare and there's usually a long line. Last weekend, I counted sixty people (then stopped counting) in the queue for le toilettes at the Eiffel Tower.
The biggest surprise was the restroom at Versailles. This was not the main palace area but a building with a gift shop, very nice take-away restaurant near Marie Antoinette's "cottage." There were two stalls in the women's room. According to Connie, the handicapped stall was pretty ordinary. The second stall was not. I encountered what was essentially a large porcelain bowl affixed to the ground. Yes, it had a flush mechanism. Very bizarre and truly unexpected at Versailles.
At a small cafe in Montmartre, the woman showed us to the first floor restroom. It was past a bunch of cleaning supplies perched at the top of the landing before a steep staircase to the basement. On second thought, I can make my way up two flights to the other restroom. "Non, non, c'est bon." This is good. It was an acrobatic feat when Connie and I passed each other on the landing.
The bathroom at Au Pied de Cachon was very nice and had a wonderful view. Cynthia, my dinner companion, also noted that the handle on the bathroom door was a pig's foot. So sweet.
Too Good to Use
At the book signing, David Lebovitz recommended going back and using something considered "Too good to use." You know, that basket of little strawberries that are absolutely perfect. How did he know I had a basket of those very special strawberries?
On our last trip to Paris, we left an unopened bottle of Veuve Cliquot champagne and caviar for the housekeepers. I was determined not to do that this time. After returning from the Louvre, I enjoyed Veuve champagne, blinis with caviar and some of the wonderful little strawberries.
Bonne Nuit
My Social Experiment
Part of the fun of being on my own is trying new things. Knowing that if it doesn't go well, there are no witnesses.. at least ones that will remind me of it in the future. as an experiment, I decided to try saying Bonjour to complete strangers. I would select someone walking by themselves, usually middle aged or older. Each and every time without fail they have responded with a bonjour. It's as though it's the law or at least a well respected custom. I love it.
Marche Visit
Today was the first time that I swiped my credit card correctly on the first try at the super marche. I also had my things bagged up before the cashier had begun checking out the next customer. It was a proud moment. Now that I know the drill, it's almost time to go home.
Quiche
I was determined to cook again in the kitchen of the apartment. I wanted to make another bacon leek quiche like I had at the Cordon Bleu. Since there wasn't a tart pan at the apartment, I found one at the marche for the bargain price of 6 Euros. Yes, it's coming home with me.
It was a warm afternoon and I had the windows opened as I pre=baked the crust and prepped the filling. I enjoyed listening to my Paris music mix on my iPhone as I cooked. Strains of Edith Piaf and Nat King Cole (wonderful French versions of his songs) filled the air.
I took a break as the quiche cooled and then got ready to head out to the Louvre.
Something very weird happened today. Just before leaving for the Louvre, I felt a little light headed. I drank some water (it has been a warm day), then I realized all I'd had today was coffee and water. It was almost 5pm and I had absolutely forgotten to eat all day. I had a slice of the yummy quiche before I headed off to the Louvre.
Evening visit to the Louvre
This was my second visit to the Louvre for this trip. I was determined to see the Richelieu and Sully wings (I'd already visited the Denon wing when the family was here). As I approached the Louvre, I saw that the line was pretty long and there wasn't any special signage for groups. I had resigned myself to a bit of a wait when Madame came by and and motioned me through the special security entrance nearby. "Merci, Madame."
Most of the people entering the Louvre headed to the Denon wing (Mona Lisa, French paintings). I was pleased that I could skip the Denon. I looked for the wing with the least people, aha, Richelieu.
Richelieu
I spent some time exploring the area of sculptures which is located under Richelieu's glass pyramid. The light was amazing. It had been a very warm day and parts of the Louvre were positively HOT.
It felt good that I didn't have any "must see" items for this visit to the Louvre. I meandered through the sculpture area and entered the rooms with smaller sculptures (mostly religious). There is so much to see at the Louvre that it can be overwhelming. In a typical museum, I'd expect to see a few gorgeous sculptures not hundreds and hundreds.
I saw a sign that said "Napoleon's Apartment" and decided to check it out. Napoleon's apartment and residence had been preserved. It reminded me of Versailles and looked like Liberace would have been right at home. Napoleon's bedroom was interesting. The bed was rather small (not to surprising), there was a large area that looked more like a meeting space.
Medieval Louvre
Medieval Louvre is an area below the Louvre that I've never seen before. Long wooden plank walkways take you along the exterior of the medieval Louvre (remains of moat of the Louvre of Philippe-Auguste and Charles V, 12th to 14th century). Cool to see but a really long walk.
Sully
The Sully wing has the Egyptian collection. The artifacts are great, there's just so much, dare I say too much. The sarcophogus room has rows and rows from simple wooden to elaborately painted to huge stone monstrosities. My eyes were glazing over. The heat didn't help. I'd brought along my souvenir fan from Versailles (thank you Connie) as well as water.
I wrapped up the Louvre just before closing time. It felt good to get out in the fresh air. The sun was still setting over the Seine and the colors were positively amazing. Pinks, purples and reds that I knew I'd never be able to capture. So I walked for a bit and caught a taxi as the lights of Paris began their nightly show.
Bathrooms
When we first arrived in Paris, I warned my sister, Connie, that you never knew what was on the other side of the door until you enter the restroom. Also, be prepared to go on a hunt for the restroom in bistros and cafes. You may have to navigate a metal circular staircase to a dark, dank, basement hallway that looks like it was used as a shelter during the war.
In better establishments (such as Laduree on the Champs Elysees) the bathrooms are beautiful small condos ensuite with your water basin and towels right there.
For the most part, public bathrooms in Paris are rare and there's usually a long line. Last weekend, I counted sixty people (then stopped counting) in the queue for le toilettes at the Eiffel Tower.
The biggest surprise was the restroom at Versailles. This was not the main palace area but a building with a gift shop, very nice take-away restaurant near Marie Antoinette's "cottage." There were two stalls in the women's room. According to Connie, the handicapped stall was pretty ordinary. The second stall was not. I encountered what was essentially a large porcelain bowl affixed to the ground. Yes, it had a flush mechanism. Very bizarre and truly unexpected at Versailles.
At a small cafe in Montmartre, the woman showed us to the first floor restroom. It was past a bunch of cleaning supplies perched at the top of the landing before a steep staircase to the basement. On second thought, I can make my way up two flights to the other restroom. "Non, non, c'est bon." This is good. It was an acrobatic feat when Connie and I passed each other on the landing.
The bathroom at Au Pied de Cachon was very nice and had a wonderful view. Cynthia, my dinner companion, also noted that the handle on the bathroom door was a pig's foot. So sweet.
Too Good to Use
At the book signing, David Lebovitz recommended going back and using something considered "Too good to use." You know, that basket of little strawberries that are absolutely perfect. How did he know I had a basket of those very special strawberries?
On our last trip to Paris, we left an unopened bottle of Veuve Cliquot champagne and caviar for the housekeepers. I was determined not to do that this time. After returning from the Louvre, I enjoyed Veuve champagne, blinis with caviar and some of the wonderful little strawberries.
Bonne Nuit
Thurs May 20th: E. Dehillerin, Au Pied de Cochon
I woke up to the sound of sirens this morning... lots of sirens. Discovered later that there was a big art heist at a nearby museum last night. My alibi - after yesterday's grueling day, I couldn't walk through a museum. I didn't see anything unusual (no stocking masked guys, no big canvas bags with dollar signs painted on them) last night as I headed back from the book signing.
E. Dehillerin
In Preparation for my second visit tp E. Dehillerin, I have this phrase ready, "Quie est le prix?" (what is the price?). Nothing has price marked. One of the gentlemen needs to look in the book. I love this shop. Today, despite sore muscles, I was determined to venture to the downstairs area.
Today's experience was very different thanks to an especially sweet young man named Kim who helped me. Kim kiddingly accused me of being a spy for Williams Sonoma. I overheard a woman talking with Kim. She wanted a pepper grinder and she was very specific (and didn't want to spend a ton of money). I was curious about what Kim would recommend and followed. When Kim got the pepper grinders down, I admitted that I had been listening to their conversation and I would like one as well. The woman was a kick, "Don't you love this place?" "Yes I do. It's my second visit," I replied. Cynthia started telling me about her culinary quests in Paris. I was spellbound.
As we made out way up to the table and cashier area, we stopped and spoke for another 15 minutes or so. Her name was Cynthia and she was from Toronto. Although she'd had two weeks in Paris, she had a visitor that stayed too long and she had been sick. She had three days left and was determined to make up for lost time. After checking out, Cynthia asked if I'd like to get coffee. I told her that I was headed to Au Pied de Cochon for dinner. She shrieked, Au Pied de Cochon was on her list. We were definitely kindred spirits. I was ready to break my rule about going to Paris and hanging out with English speaking people.
Dinner at Au Pied de Cochon
Au Pied de Cochon sounds oh-so-romantic and it translates to "the foot of the pig." The restaurant is near the original Les Halles (wholesale food area) and it is where Julia Child would regularly stop to have their famous onion soup.
Cynthia pulled out her print-off to show me that Au Pied de Cochon was on her list. Cynthia had a treasure trove in her bag. She pulled out multiple varieties of sel du mer (sea salt). One was infused with vanilla bean smelled heavenly. I told Cynthia all about the cooking classes and the Julia Child tour. Cynthia also follows David Lebovitz. Yes, we definitely are kindred spirits.
The Special Menu
Cynthia speaks French very well. I was a bit tired and having a tough time navigating the menu at Au Pied de Cochon. Cynthia looked at it and started laughing, "This isn't French, I think it's Russian." "That's great, at least they didn't assume I'm American," I laughed. Once I had the English menu, I was set.
Au Pied de Cochon is a beautiful restaurant with a quiet park setting out front. So much more relaxing than the sidewalk cafes on busy streets with noise and exhaust, Cynthia noted. I couldn't agree more. The conversation flowed effortlessly and we had probably been there over an hour before we ordered.
Cynthia and I each had a bowl of the onion soup (considered one of the best in Paris). It did not disappoint, it was excellent. Cynthia had fresh oysters and I had the specialty, the Pied au Cochon - a pig's foot with a special spice rub. I'm not sure if it was fried or braised. It was served with bearnaise sauce and frites (fries). It was very good but very rich. David (aka Mr. foie gras) would absolutely love this.
By the time we finished our meal, and we had both started yawning, we exchanged email info and headed to the corner. I knew it was late but I was shocked that it was almost 11pm. We had been at the restaurant for over five hours. n all that time the waiter never stoppped by unprompted. We weren't rushed (and the restaurant was very busy). Most of the diners were French, which I always think is a good sign.
Cynthia and I walked to the corner hugged before parting ways. I felt like walking for a bit before heading back to the apartment.
Walk on the Wild Side
Later in the evening, some areas in Paris are very quiet, very dark. After venturing a few blocks, the cafes and bistros were less frequent. The streets got darker and some of the people I passed by were, let's say, interesting. At one point, a woman walked up to me to ask something As she began to speak, I looked at her, definitely a crack you-know-what. "No Francais."
I have done a good amount of traveling on my own and my instincts kicked in. I headed back toward the brighter, busier areas. I passed a very busy upscale nightclub called Le Cab. There was a long line of very well dressed people behind the ropes waiting to get in. There were also some gorgeous cars parked out front including a red Ferrarari and a yellow Lambhorgini. Definitely a happening place, I thought.
I walked a bit further and grabbed a taxi in front of the Hotel du Louvre.
It felt great to get back to the apartment.
Bonne Nuit
E. Dehillerin
In Preparation for my second visit tp E. Dehillerin, I have this phrase ready, "Quie est le prix?" (what is the price?). Nothing has price marked. One of the gentlemen needs to look in the book. I love this shop. Today, despite sore muscles, I was determined to venture to the downstairs area.
Today's experience was very different thanks to an especially sweet young man named Kim who helped me. Kim kiddingly accused me of being a spy for Williams Sonoma. I overheard a woman talking with Kim. She wanted a pepper grinder and she was very specific (and didn't want to spend a ton of money). I was curious about what Kim would recommend and followed. When Kim got the pepper grinders down, I admitted that I had been listening to their conversation and I would like one as well. The woman was a kick, "Don't you love this place?" "Yes I do. It's my second visit," I replied. Cynthia started telling me about her culinary quests in Paris. I was spellbound.
As we made out way up to the table and cashier area, we stopped and spoke for another 15 minutes or so. Her name was Cynthia and she was from Toronto. Although she'd had two weeks in Paris, she had a visitor that stayed too long and she had been sick. She had three days left and was determined to make up for lost time. After checking out, Cynthia asked if I'd like to get coffee. I told her that I was headed to Au Pied de Cochon for dinner. She shrieked, Au Pied de Cochon was on her list. We were definitely kindred spirits. I was ready to break my rule about going to Paris and hanging out with English speaking people.
Dinner at Au Pied de Cochon
Au Pied de Cochon sounds oh-so-romantic and it translates to "the foot of the pig." The restaurant is near the original Les Halles (wholesale food area) and it is where Julia Child would regularly stop to have their famous onion soup.
Cynthia pulled out her print-off to show me that Au Pied de Cochon was on her list. Cynthia had a treasure trove in her bag. She pulled out multiple varieties of sel du mer (sea salt). One was infused with vanilla bean smelled heavenly. I told Cynthia all about the cooking classes and the Julia Child tour. Cynthia also follows David Lebovitz. Yes, we definitely are kindred spirits.
The Special Menu
Cynthia speaks French very well. I was a bit tired and having a tough time navigating the menu at Au Pied de Cochon. Cynthia looked at it and started laughing, "This isn't French, I think it's Russian." "That's great, at least they didn't assume I'm American," I laughed. Once I had the English menu, I was set.
Au Pied de Cochon is a beautiful restaurant with a quiet park setting out front. So much more relaxing than the sidewalk cafes on busy streets with noise and exhaust, Cynthia noted. I couldn't agree more. The conversation flowed effortlessly and we had probably been there over an hour before we ordered.
Cynthia and I each had a bowl of the onion soup (considered one of the best in Paris). It did not disappoint, it was excellent. Cynthia had fresh oysters and I had the specialty, the Pied au Cochon - a pig's foot with a special spice rub. I'm not sure if it was fried or braised. It was served with bearnaise sauce and frites (fries). It was very good but very rich. David (aka Mr. foie gras) would absolutely love this.
By the time we finished our meal, and we had both started yawning, we exchanged email info and headed to the corner. I knew it was late but I was shocked that it was almost 11pm. We had been at the restaurant for over five hours. n all that time the waiter never stoppped by unprompted. We weren't rushed (and the restaurant was very busy). Most of the diners were French, which I always think is a good sign.
Cynthia and I walked to the corner hugged before parting ways. I felt like walking for a bit before heading back to the apartment.
Walk on the Wild Side
Later in the evening, some areas in Paris are very quiet, very dark. After venturing a few blocks, the cafes and bistros were less frequent. The streets got darker and some of the people I passed by were, let's say, interesting. At one point, a woman walked up to me to ask something As she began to speak, I looked at her, definitely a crack you-know-what. "No Francais."
I have done a good amount of traveling on my own and my instincts kicked in. I headed back toward the brighter, busier areas. I passed a very busy upscale nightclub called Le Cab. There was a long line of very well dressed people behind the ropes waiting to get in. There were also some gorgeous cars parked out front including a red Ferrarari and a yellow Lambhorgini. Definitely a happening place, I thought.
I walked a bit further and grabbed a taxi in front of the Hotel du Louvre.
It felt great to get back to the apartment.
Bonne Nuit
Weds May 19th: Pere Lachaise, David Lebovitz Book Signing
One of the great things about being on my own in Paris is deciding moment by moment what I want to do. I have a list of thing I'd like to while I'm in Paris (you know me, of course I have a list). I consider everything on the list optional.
As I was drinking my second cup of coffee this morning, I took a look at the list and spent a bit of time online looking at more info regarding the Pere Lachaise cemetary. The weather is great, that's where I will go.
My Favorite Park is Paris
After the hustle and bustle of the Champ du Mars area, I longed for some peace and quiet. My new favorite park is sprawling green space that's quiet, the sounds are song birds and buzzing bees, The trees and vines are lush and flowers abound. The monuments have lovely architectural details and there are loads of sculptures. Yes, this is the Pere Lachaise cemetary.
Pere Lachaise is the largest cemetary in Paris. It is full of hills and winding narrow cobblestone roads. The cemetary is divided into divisions and plots. I ws in search of my beloved Edith Piaf. After entering, I located Edith's division on the map near the guard shack. There were a handful of others I'd see if convenient. One of the mausoleums caught my eye. It was in the general direction of Edith so I headed over.
Many of the family monuments and mausoleums looked similar to the beautiful apartment buildings in Paris. I suppose you'd call is an art nouveau style, a small building adorned with black iron gates. An eternal chateau. A number of plots have life-size sculptures or busts. I suspect these were very important businessmen of their time. Even though the plots are for the family, the busts and statues are invariably the family patriarch. I suppose it's because he paid for the plot.
Rick Steves recommended good walking shoes for Pere Lachaise and we wasn't kidding. The old cobblestone walkways are very uneven and once you're off the walkway, you need to watch every step. Even with being careful, I turned my ankle twice with mis-steps.
I took my time, enjoying the peaceful surroundings and taking photographs. Eventually, I resumed my quest - looking for Edith. The afternoon got very warm and the hills started to take their toll. Two older German couples approached. Since I don't speak German and only a bit of French, I braced myself and mentally preparea a "Non parlez vouz Francais." Then, one of the women said, "Edith Piaf?" Yes, we spoke tha same language. Although we were in the right general area, we spent the next 20 minutes working together to find Edith. I heard a loud and excited, "Madame, Madame."
Edith is buried in a modest family plat marked Gassion-Piaf. It's easy to miss. There were a few flowers but not the scores I'd expected. There isn't a special marker or plaque discussing Edith's accomplishments, There isn't a portrait f Edith etched into stone. A simple, black stone sarcophagus type of thing, so common for the Pere Lachaise. I left the roses I'd brought with me.
The German woman offered to take a photo of me and I eagerly accepted. After the Germans left, I decided to take a video of the plot. Then the wheels started turning, I had my iPhone with all of my music. How about a sound track? Ordinarily, it would have seemed gauche. But today, there were tree trimmers nearby and their noise was very loud. A little sweet music would be a relief. I fired up my favorite Edith Piaf song, "La Vie en Rose" and took my video.
I didn't realize how many people were nearby looking for Edith. The music seemed to be a beacon. A steady stream of people trickled over. I finished my video and packed up. If I don't find Oscar Wllde, Jim Morrison or Chopin, I'm good. I found the little sparrow, my beloved Edith.
I decided to meander in (what I thought was) the direction of the main entrance to the cemetary. The quiet peace of Pere Lachaise was relaxing. After a long uphill stretch, I saw some amazing views of Paris. My feet and back were starting to ache. In the distance saw a couple of young guys with backpacks, the a young goth couple and an older hippie guy. Jim Morrison must be nearby. I saw four people huddled near a grave. Yes, it was Jim. I'm still not sure why he's buried in Paris. When I have the time and desire, I'll find out.
Jim Morrison's grave is downright austere. A non-descript cement slab. Today, there were a few flowers, a couple of handmade tributes with photos. No whiskey bottles. There is an interesting Greek quote on the tombstone: "Kata ton daimoma eaytoy" which translates to "True to his own spirit."
After another 45 minutes or so, I finally found my way out of Pere Lachaise and headed back to the apartment. It was 4pm and I was ready for a late lunch and a nap.
David Lebovitz Book Signing
I'm a great fan of ex-patriot pastry chef and author David Lebovitz. He worked at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and he's liven in Paris for almost ten years. His blog is witty, irreverent and full of valuable info about Paris (DavidLebovitz.com).
Unfortunately, David's culinary tour for May sold out in a matter of minutes. I was thrilled to find out that David has a new book that's just come out and he's doing a book signing event here in Paris during my stay. Unlike the states, the event at W.H. Smith required an RSVP. Paris is so civilized.
David's book "A Sweet Life in Paris" helped prepare me for my time here on my own. There are so many funny anecdotes about everyday life in Paris. I was well prepared for the Parisians to cut inline at the market. There were times when I let it slide and other times they met "Monsoir Elbow." I'm still polite, I'll give you a "Pardon" or two, then gently push my way through.
In defense of the French, especially the Parisians, it seems like the tourists that come to Paris temporarily lose their minds. They'll stop in the middle of a busy narrow sidewalk and gather the whole family around for a look at a map. To Clarify, when I say tourists, I mean all tourists, not just Americans.
I arrived at the book signing event a few minutes late. A woman was in the process of introducing David. The main level of the bookstore was jam packed and incredibly HOT. Once David took the mic, I could finally see him when the tall guy in front of me moved to the left. David was as witty and personable as I'd hoped. The volcano had delayed shipments so David hadn't seen a copy of the new cookbook until today.
David also mentioned that he mailed his check to Schwab six weeks ago and still wasn't sure if it had arrived. That was too funny. After a half hour or so of anecdotes and acknowledgments, David began signing. I was surprised that half of the people left
When I finally got a chance to have my books signed, I mentioned that I work for Charles Schwab and that I'm on sabbatical. David absolutely gushed about how much he loves Schwab and that "the people at Schwab know what they're doing." This was good to hear. David was not at all heppy with the financial institution he was in the process of moving his accounts out of.
I removed my "Schwab Ambassador to the World" ribbon as I left WH Smith and walked down Rue de Rivoli. The fresh air felt wonderful.
As I was drinking my second cup of coffee this morning, I took a look at the list and spent a bit of time online looking at more info regarding the Pere Lachaise cemetary. The weather is great, that's where I will go.
My Favorite Park is Paris
After the hustle and bustle of the Champ du Mars area, I longed for some peace and quiet. My new favorite park is sprawling green space that's quiet, the sounds are song birds and buzzing bees, The trees and vines are lush and flowers abound. The monuments have lovely architectural details and there are loads of sculptures. Yes, this is the Pere Lachaise cemetary.
Pere Lachaise is the largest cemetary in Paris. It is full of hills and winding narrow cobblestone roads. The cemetary is divided into divisions and plots. I ws in search of my beloved Edith Piaf. After entering, I located Edith's division on the map near the guard shack. There were a handful of others I'd see if convenient. One of the mausoleums caught my eye. It was in the general direction of Edith so I headed over.
Many of the family monuments and mausoleums looked similar to the beautiful apartment buildings in Paris. I suppose you'd call is an art nouveau style, a small building adorned with black iron gates. An eternal chateau. A number of plots have life-size sculptures or busts. I suspect these were very important businessmen of their time. Even though the plots are for the family, the busts and statues are invariably the family patriarch. I suppose it's because he paid for the plot.
Rick Steves recommended good walking shoes for Pere Lachaise and we wasn't kidding. The old cobblestone walkways are very uneven and once you're off the walkway, you need to watch every step. Even with being careful, I turned my ankle twice with mis-steps.
I took my time, enjoying the peaceful surroundings and taking photographs. Eventually, I resumed my quest - looking for Edith. The afternoon got very warm and the hills started to take their toll. Two older German couples approached. Since I don't speak German and only a bit of French, I braced myself and mentally preparea a "Non parlez vouz Francais." Then, one of the women said, "Edith Piaf?" Yes, we spoke tha same language. Although we were in the right general area, we spent the next 20 minutes working together to find Edith. I heard a loud and excited, "Madame, Madame."
Edith is buried in a modest family plat marked Gassion-Piaf. It's easy to miss. There were a few flowers but not the scores I'd expected. There isn't a special marker or plaque discussing Edith's accomplishments, There isn't a portrait f Edith etched into stone. A simple, black stone sarcophagus type of thing, so common for the Pere Lachaise. I left the roses I'd brought with me.
The German woman offered to take a photo of me and I eagerly accepted. After the Germans left, I decided to take a video of the plot. Then the wheels started turning, I had my iPhone with all of my music. How about a sound track? Ordinarily, it would have seemed gauche. But today, there were tree trimmers nearby and their noise was very loud. A little sweet music would be a relief. I fired up my favorite Edith Piaf song, "La Vie en Rose" and took my video.
I didn't realize how many people were nearby looking for Edith. The music seemed to be a beacon. A steady stream of people trickled over. I finished my video and packed up. If I don't find Oscar Wllde, Jim Morrison or Chopin, I'm good. I found the little sparrow, my beloved Edith.
I decided to meander in (what I thought was) the direction of the main entrance to the cemetary. The quiet peace of Pere Lachaise was relaxing. After a long uphill stretch, I saw some amazing views of Paris. My feet and back were starting to ache. In the distance saw a couple of young guys with backpacks, the a young goth couple and an older hippie guy. Jim Morrison must be nearby. I saw four people huddled near a grave. Yes, it was Jim. I'm still not sure why he's buried in Paris. When I have the time and desire, I'll find out.
Jim Morrison's grave is downright austere. A non-descript cement slab. Today, there were a few flowers, a couple of handmade tributes with photos. No whiskey bottles. There is an interesting Greek quote on the tombstone: "Kata ton daimoma eaytoy" which translates to "True to his own spirit."
After another 45 minutes or so, I finally found my way out of Pere Lachaise and headed back to the apartment. It was 4pm and I was ready for a late lunch and a nap.
David Lebovitz Book Signing
I'm a great fan of ex-patriot pastry chef and author David Lebovitz. He worked at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and he's liven in Paris for almost ten years. His blog is witty, irreverent and full of valuable info about Paris (DavidLebovitz.com).
Unfortunately, David's culinary tour for May sold out in a matter of minutes. I was thrilled to find out that David has a new book that's just come out and he's doing a book signing event here in Paris during my stay. Unlike the states, the event at W.H. Smith required an RSVP. Paris is so civilized.
David's book "A Sweet Life in Paris" helped prepare me for my time here on my own. There are so many funny anecdotes about everyday life in Paris. I was well prepared for the Parisians to cut inline at the market. There were times when I let it slide and other times they met "Monsoir Elbow." I'm still polite, I'll give you a "Pardon" or two, then gently push my way through.
In defense of the French, especially the Parisians, it seems like the tourists that come to Paris temporarily lose their minds. They'll stop in the middle of a busy narrow sidewalk and gather the whole family around for a look at a map. To Clarify, when I say tourists, I mean all tourists, not just Americans.
I arrived at the book signing event a few minutes late. A woman was in the process of introducing David. The main level of the bookstore was jam packed and incredibly HOT. Once David took the mic, I could finally see him when the tall guy in front of me moved to the left. David was as witty and personable as I'd hoped. The volcano had delayed shipments so David hadn't seen a copy of the new cookbook until today.
David also mentioned that he mailed his check to Schwab six weeks ago and still wasn't sure if it had arrived. That was too funny. After a half hour or so of anecdotes and acknowledgments, David began signing. I was surprised that half of the people left
When I finally got a chance to have my books signed, I mentioned that I work for Charles Schwab and that I'm on sabbatical. David absolutely gushed about how much he loves Schwab and that "the people at Schwab know what they're doing." This was good to hear. David was not at all heppy with the financial institution he was in the process of moving his accounts out of.
I removed my "Schwab Ambassador to the World" ribbon as I left WH Smith and walked down Rue de Rivoli. The fresh air felt wonderful.
Tues May 18th: Quiet Day
Today was a low-key day. It felt good to sleep in, drink coffee and relax. Later in the day I went for a walk and bought some fresh roses for the apartment. I also ventured into a produce shop, the kind where you don't touch the produce.
Produce Market
I asked for the raison noir (dark grapes). I'm so used to touching, squeezing and smelling produce before I select. This is very different and requires an element of trust. The gentleman in the lab coat (one of three at this busy shop) holds of a bunch of grapes, "Oui, c'est bon. D'accord." I think I just said "Yes, it's good. ok." He shakes his head in agreement and wraps them up. I prepare to pay, no, I need to pay the lab coat guy at the counter. "D'accord, merci."
Although I'm not sure what he just said, I know that the lab soat guy at the counter doesn't want a 10 Euro note (for a 8.10 purchase). Do I have change. I eventually dump out all my change and he takes most of it. I can live with this.. at least my entire exchange was in French.
Souvenir Guys
One souvenir shopkeep who speaks very good English likes to ask, "Where is Madame headed today?" My regular answer, "In this direction." Smile, laugh and walk. Even the souvenir guys at the Champ du Mars have stopped trying to sell me stuff and would simply exchange a polite "Bonjour" or "Bon Soir."
The souvenir guys seemed to have their turf / areas of the Champ du Mars. I noticed that I'd see the same guys as I entered and left the front door of the apartment building. When the souvenir guys would ask "Are you American," my answer was always, "Not this week." At first they looked perplexed by the response. Later, they seemed to find it very funny. It has become a running gag.
Bonne Nuit
Produce Market
I asked for the raison noir (dark grapes). I'm so used to touching, squeezing and smelling produce before I select. This is very different and requires an element of trust. The gentleman in the lab coat (one of three at this busy shop) holds of a bunch of grapes, "Oui, c'est bon. D'accord." I think I just said "Yes, it's good. ok." He shakes his head in agreement and wraps them up. I prepare to pay, no, I need to pay the lab coat guy at the counter. "D'accord, merci."
Although I'm not sure what he just said, I know that the lab soat guy at the counter doesn't want a 10 Euro note (for a 8.10 purchase). Do I have change. I eventually dump out all my change and he takes most of it. I can live with this.. at least my entire exchange was in French.
Souvenir Guys
One souvenir shopkeep who speaks very good English likes to ask, "Where is Madame headed today?" My regular answer, "In this direction." Smile, laugh and walk. Even the souvenir guys at the Champ du Mars have stopped trying to sell me stuff and would simply exchange a polite "Bonjour" or "Bon Soir."
The souvenir guys seemed to have their turf / areas of the Champ du Mars. I noticed that I'd see the same guys as I entered and left the front door of the apartment building. When the souvenir guys would ask "Are you American," my answer was always, "Not this week." At first they looked perplexed by the response. Later, they seemed to find it very funny. It has become a running gag.
Bonne Nuit
Mon May 17th - Cooking Class at Le Violon d"Ingres
I fly out next Monday morning. As it gets closer to the end of the trip, time seems to be passing at a faster rate (maybe it's just my sense of time).
Cooking Class at Le Violon d"Ingres
Chef Stéphane Schmidt, formerly of the Hotel Crillon, teaches the class and he speaks fluent English, so there were no ‘Lost in Translation’ problems.
This was a very small class with a total of five students. I was really looking forward to this class since it takes place in a working kitchen and it is truly hands on. Our class was at a table in the middle of a working kitchen. There were eight people working in the kitchen as they prepped for the lunch.
Le Violon is one of four restaurants Christan Constant has in Paris. They are adjacent to each other and each has a different persona. Le Violon is fine dining and considered Chef Constant's flagship restaurant.
After a good sup of coffee, our class began. Stations had been prepped around a table in the kitchen. I enjoyed periodically watching the prep staff. Each of the seven had specific assignments. One was assigned to artichokes (cutting out the hearts). He was at it for more than an hour. Things move very quickly in a working kitchen. You have to be aware of what you are doing and who is nearby. There are a lot of busy knives and many boiling pots.
My fantasy chef world involves finding the best produce at the market and developing an inspired menu. It never includes the real world of "dues paying" and being assigned to prepping things like celery, onions and artichokes for months at a time.
Chef Schmidt handed us sheets with our menu: quail stuffed with foie gras (served on a bed of vegetables) and creme caramel. Chef also decided to include a pea soup since the peas looked especially good at the market that morning.
Pea Soup
We all worked at shelling the peas (approx 2 lbs). We saved the shells and got rid of the bad bits/ end bits. The peas were boiled in salted water then immersed in cold water which helped them retain a vivid green color. immersion had helped them retain their texture and vivid green color. The shells were boiled in chicken stock.
For serving, a few of the blanched peas were placed in the bottom of the bowl along with matchstick slices of the chorizo sausage, a sprinkle of finely chopped parsley and some of the tiny croutons. Then, a spoonful of the mink infused foam was placed on top. The bowls were all placed at the table. The soup came out in a large tureen and was ladled into each bowl.
Vegetable Mixture
The vegetable mixture included potatoes, onions and mushrooms. The small golden round potatoes that were from a special island off the coast of Great Britain (note to self - small yukon golds will work fine). We used paring knives to scrape the potato skin away and dropped our cleaned potatoes into a stainless bowl that had cold water.
The spring onions were about the same diameter as a quarter and still had the greens attached. We removed the outer layer and left approximately an inch of the green with the onion.
The chantrelle mushrooms were quartered. Chef recommends rinsing mushrooms in water and drying them on a towel.
The onions were sauteed with bacon, potatoes boild for 5 minutes in salted water for about 5 minutes then adder to the onions along with parsley and fresh thyme sprigs. After the potatoes and onion started to brown the mushrooms were added. They all cooked together for about a minute then were moved off the burner to cool.
We added salt and pepper to both sides of the quail and the chef gave each of us a slice of the foie gras (about half the size of a deck of cards). I was tickled that we were given wooden skewers to secure the quail after we'd folded them up. I use wooden skewers for turkey at home.
The quails were sauteed in peanut oil and butter. Interesting note - the chef used peanut oil to brown the quails. He prefers peanut oil because it can handle a high temp and it's priced well. Also, with olive oil at a high temp, the flavor cooks off. For times when you'd like the flavor of olive oil, chef recommended adding a bit of good olive oil at the end.
About a cup of the veg mixture was placed in the bottom of a very small oval cast iron covered pan. The browned quail was placed on top (breast side up) and brushed with butter. The top was placed on the pan and the pans went into a 400 degree oven for 10 minutes.
Creme Caramel
The creme caramel was a fairly standard recipe (eggs, whole milk, sugar and two fresh vanilla beans). Chef Schmidt had a large non-stick metal mold. The browned sugar syrup (caramel) was poured into the bottom and allowed to rest. Then the egg vanila mixture was poured on top and it was placed into a pan with about an inch of very hot water. Some of the flecks of vanilla were visible at the surface of the mixture as the chef transported it to the oven. Since it needs at least three hours to cool after baking, chef had a pre-made creme caramel for us to have with our lunch. Chef also noted that creme caramel is great made a day ahead.
Q&A with Chef Schmidt
Q. How do you select peas at the market?
A. You open a few and make sure that the peas are good sized (not tiny, not too big).
Q. How do you determine the specials / menu for the restaurant?
A. Based on what looks best at the market in the morning.
We headed out to the restaurant and took a break as the quail finished cooking. The entire group was ready and more than willing when Chef Stefane asked, "Would anyone like a glass of wine?" After a bit of white wine and discussion, we headed back to the kitchen to check on the quail. Yes, they were ready.
For lunch, we ate what we'd prepared; pea soup, quail stuffed with fois gras and had the creme caramel for dessert. The soup was excellent and something I may make at home (maybe without the mint foam). The quail was flavorful and after cooking the foie gras had melded with the meat providing that special something that you couldn't quite identify. The vegetables were amazing. They had taken on a bit of the quail and foie gras flavor (sorry, David, I probably won't be making this dish at home).
The creme caramel was light and the vanilla beans provided an excellent flavor. I haven't used vanilla beans before but I am ready to trek to Draeger's when I get back. An option for the creme caramel is adding a bit of Grand Marnier and orange zest. That I can do!
At the end of the meal, Chef gave each of us a copy of the new Christian Constant cookbook. I love the inscription, "Cooking is feeling."
Opera Garnier
After the cooking class, I headed back to the apartment. Instead of feeling ready for a nap, I felt surprisingly energized. Okay, maybe it was the espresso at the end of the meal. After freshening up, I headed to the Opera Garnier for another look. When I got there, I started taking photos of the exterior and discovered that my camera had no charge left (yes, I took a lot of photos during the cooking class).
The combination of knowing I'd have to commit details to memory along with this being my final visit to Opera Garnier during this trip forced me to take time, walk slowly and really take it all in. The main auditorium was closed for rehearsals which was fne since I'd already spent two hours in there. Since I didn't have my camera, I bought a book of photos in the gift shop.
After Opera Garnier, I wanted to keep going and get one more stop in so I headed to the Grande Palais. It's a beautiful building and I wanted to see the inside. The line wasn't too long. After waiting for 30 minutes and noticing that the line hadn't moved, I asked an American woman if whe knew why it was taking so long. Apparently there are tickete with entry times and people with those can enter immediately. Those in the general admission queue would wait. It was going to be another hour before I'd get in.
Since it was after 4pm and the Grande Palais was open until 6pm, I decided to leave. The Palais wasn't quite grande enough to warrant a long wait at the end of a long day. If I get back, I get back. Otherwise, I'll see it as I'm heading places during the week and I can always check out images on the Web.
It felt good to get back to the apartment!
Cooking Class at Le Violon d"Ingres
Chef Stéphane Schmidt, formerly of the Hotel Crillon, teaches the class and he speaks fluent English, so there were no ‘Lost in Translation’ problems.
This was a very small class with a total of five students. I was really looking forward to this class since it takes place in a working kitchen and it is truly hands on. Our class was at a table in the middle of a working kitchen. There were eight people working in the kitchen as they prepped for the lunch.
Le Violon is one of four restaurants Christan Constant has in Paris. They are adjacent to each other and each has a different persona. Le Violon is fine dining and considered Chef Constant's flagship restaurant.
After a good sup of coffee, our class began. Stations had been prepped around a table in the kitchen. I enjoyed periodically watching the prep staff. Each of the seven had specific assignments. One was assigned to artichokes (cutting out the hearts). He was at it for more than an hour. Things move very quickly in a working kitchen. You have to be aware of what you are doing and who is nearby. There are a lot of busy knives and many boiling pots.
My fantasy chef world involves finding the best produce at the market and developing an inspired menu. It never includes the real world of "dues paying" and being assigned to prepping things like celery, onions and artichokes for months at a time.
Chef Schmidt handed us sheets with our menu: quail stuffed with foie gras (served on a bed of vegetables) and creme caramel. Chef also decided to include a pea soup since the peas looked especially good at the market that morning.
Pea Soup
We all worked at shelling the peas (approx 2 lbs). We saved the shells and got rid of the bad bits/ end bits. The peas were boiled in salted water then immersed in cold water which helped them retain a vivid green color. immersion had helped them retain their texture and vivid green color. The shells were boiled in chicken stock.
For serving, a few of the blanched peas were placed in the bottom of the bowl along with matchstick slices of the chorizo sausage, a sprinkle of finely chopped parsley and some of the tiny croutons. Then, a spoonful of the mink infused foam was placed on top. The bowls were all placed at the table. The soup came out in a large tureen and was ladled into each bowl.
Vegetable Mixture
The vegetable mixture included potatoes, onions and mushrooms. The small golden round potatoes that were from a special island off the coast of Great Britain (note to self - small yukon golds will work fine). We used paring knives to scrape the potato skin away and dropped our cleaned potatoes into a stainless bowl that had cold water.
The spring onions were about the same diameter as a quarter and still had the greens attached. We removed the outer layer and left approximately an inch of the green with the onion.
The chantrelle mushrooms were quartered. Chef recommends rinsing mushrooms in water and drying them on a towel.
The onions were sauteed with bacon, potatoes boild for 5 minutes in salted water for about 5 minutes then adder to the onions along with parsley and fresh thyme sprigs. After the potatoes and onion started to brown the mushrooms were added. They all cooked together for about a minute then were moved off the burner to cool.
We added salt and pepper to both sides of the quail and the chef gave each of us a slice of the foie gras (about half the size of a deck of cards). I was tickled that we were given wooden skewers to secure the quail after we'd folded them up. I use wooden skewers for turkey at home.
The quails were sauteed in peanut oil and butter. Interesting note - the chef used peanut oil to brown the quails. He prefers peanut oil because it can handle a high temp and it's priced well. Also, with olive oil at a high temp, the flavor cooks off. For times when you'd like the flavor of olive oil, chef recommended adding a bit of good olive oil at the end.
About a cup of the veg mixture was placed in the bottom of a very small oval cast iron covered pan. The browned quail was placed on top (breast side up) and brushed with butter. The top was placed on the pan and the pans went into a 400 degree oven for 10 minutes.
Creme Caramel
The creme caramel was a fairly standard recipe (eggs, whole milk, sugar and two fresh vanilla beans). Chef Schmidt had a large non-stick metal mold. The browned sugar syrup (caramel) was poured into the bottom and allowed to rest. Then the egg vanila mixture was poured on top and it was placed into a pan with about an inch of very hot water. Some of the flecks of vanilla were visible at the surface of the mixture as the chef transported it to the oven. Since it needs at least three hours to cool after baking, chef had a pre-made creme caramel for us to have with our lunch. Chef also noted that creme caramel is great made a day ahead.
Q&A with Chef Schmidt
Q. How do you select peas at the market?
A. You open a few and make sure that the peas are good sized (not tiny, not too big).
Q. How do you determine the specials / menu for the restaurant?
A. Based on what looks best at the market in the morning.
We headed out to the restaurant and took a break as the quail finished cooking. The entire group was ready and more than willing when Chef Stefane asked, "Would anyone like a glass of wine?" After a bit of white wine and discussion, we headed back to the kitchen to check on the quail. Yes, they were ready.
For lunch, we ate what we'd prepared; pea soup, quail stuffed with fois gras and had the creme caramel for dessert. The soup was excellent and something I may make at home (maybe without the mint foam). The quail was flavorful and after cooking the foie gras had melded with the meat providing that special something that you couldn't quite identify. The vegetables were amazing. They had taken on a bit of the quail and foie gras flavor (sorry, David, I probably won't be making this dish at home).
The creme caramel was light and the vanilla beans provided an excellent flavor. I haven't used vanilla beans before but I am ready to trek to Draeger's when I get back. An option for the creme caramel is adding a bit of Grand Marnier and orange zest. That I can do!
At the end of the meal, Chef gave each of us a copy of the new Christian Constant cookbook. I love the inscription, "Cooking is feeling."
Opera Garnier
After the cooking class, I headed back to the apartment. Instead of feeling ready for a nap, I felt surprisingly energized. Okay, maybe it was the espresso at the end of the meal. After freshening up, I headed to the Opera Garnier for another look. When I got there, I started taking photos of the exterior and discovered that my camera had no charge left (yes, I took a lot of photos during the cooking class).
The combination of knowing I'd have to commit details to memory along with this being my final visit to Opera Garnier during this trip forced me to take time, walk slowly and really take it all in. The main auditorium was closed for rehearsals which was fne since I'd already spent two hours in there. Since I didn't have my camera, I bought a book of photos in the gift shop.
After Opera Garnier, I wanted to keep going and get one more stop in so I headed to the Grande Palais. It's a beautiful building and I wanted to see the inside. The line wasn't too long. After waiting for 30 minutes and noticing that the line hadn't moved, I asked an American woman if whe knew why it was taking so long. Apparently there are tickete with entry times and people with those can enter immediately. Those in the general admission queue would wait. It was going to be another hour before I'd get in.
Since it was after 4pm and the Grande Palais was open until 6pm, I decided to leave. The Palais wasn't quite grande enough to warrant a long wait at the end of a long day. If I get back, I get back. Otherwise, I'll see it as I'm heading places during the week and I can always check out images on the Web.
It felt good to get back to the apartment!
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